Dance Off

As temperatures cool, we try to run two days on then one day off. We recently bumped up from two mile runs to four miles runs. It’s crazy to think these dogs will be eating up fifty mile runs or more in just a few months. I wish humans had that sort of endurance. Well, I guess some do, I’m just not one of those humans. I wish I had that sort of endurance! Watching the dogs effortlessly trot down the trail is awe-inspiring.

While all the youngsters are doing exceptionally well, there is one standout so far this season: Foxfire! At the end of last season, Big Tuna, Beesly, and Foxfire had been testing out the lead position. The last few runs, I’ve put Foxfire in front with his buddy Thresher, and Foxfire is giving off Smoky vibes! (AKA, he’s crushing it in lead). I’m excited to test out the other two-year-olds in lead this season. For many dogs, two-years-old is when they start to show their leading potential!

In case folks missed the Facebook post- here is the 2022-2023 logo! Tucker designed this season’s logo in between his mule packing trips this summer. A big thanks to Tucker. We love it!

A photo and video of Tucker’s summer adventures.

While we (Sam, who I plan to introduce soon, and I) started training, Derek visited the Brooks Range. Check out these caribou and bear photos! Derek watched as the bear in the first photo walked along, stopped, and decided that that spot was the perfect place for a nap. The caribou were in various stages of shedding their velvet. Some caribou still had the velvet (dark brown fuzziness on their antlers protecting the blood capillaries) while others had already scraped it off revealing the bone antler underneath.

Nome Arm Wrestling

It’s pouring rain outside, and I’m procrastinating and apparently feeling nostalgic. So here’s a fun story.

March 2015

That February, I had raced in my first 1000 mile race with my own dog team. That March, I traveled to Nome to see Aliy and Allen arrive. For the SP Kennel followers, this was in the days of Waylon and Scout. Scooter and Schmoe. Mac and Izzy. Nacho. Quito. I snowmachined out to White Mountain, where Aliy told me that she would like to participate in the arm wrestling competition in Nome after the race. Fast forward several hours, and Aliy had crossed the finish line in Nome in the afternoon. I looked it up in the Iditarod Archives- 2:44 PM to be exact. Even though she had just raced to a 5th place finish and was by normal human standards exhausted, she enthusiastically said- wake me up from my nap. Let’s go to the arm wrestling competition. Yes, who needs sleep after a 1000-mile race when there’s an arm wrestling competition scheduled.

We headed to the Breakers Bar. Now, I actually have a terrible memory. I think it’s what allows me to race 1000-mile races- I forget specifics and decide I need to race again. So in regards to the arm wrestling competition, I don’t remember all the details, but I’ll share what I do remember. I remember the bar being packed with men and women cheering and jostling around. I remember one of the first matches, where a woman from Anchorage who had flown to Nome for this specific event strutted in wearing a silky robe like a boxer. She pulled the robe off, flexing her insanely large and defined biceps. This woman is going to win- I thought. She was matched up against a lanky woman from Bethel. Boom. The lady from Bethel slammed the Anchorage woman’s fist to the table like it was a mosquito in need of squashing. Alrighty… so it’s not just about big muscles. Technique must matter.

It was my friend Tamara’s turn. Thwack. Tamara slammed the woman’s hand against the table. Tamara’s eyes widen and she bared her teeth and growled a battle cry, a big grin spreading across her face. Ear-to-ear smiles all around.

It was Aliy’s turn. She was matched against a woman from California. The battle began, and as Aliy methodically pressed the woman’s arm to the table, CRACK. The once rowdy and cheering bar went silent. Everyone’s eyes widened as we realized… the woman’s arm was broken. I don’t really remember what exactly happened after that. There was a buzz of activity. Profanities whispered in disbelief. Shocked expressions. The woman was taken to the hospital. Seeing as she was a lawyer from California, it was lucky that the woman was more star-struck rather than angry. And for most news articles about the event, the story ended there. Google more about it if you’re interested. But since this is my nostalgic blog post, the story continued.

Regardless of broken bones, the competition went on. And it ended with Aliy and I being paired for the championship match. Perhaps Aliy was holding back to keep from breaking my arm. Or perhaps she was giving it her all because Aliy Zirkle isn’t known for half-assing anything. But somehow, I walked away with the first place plaque. And I was ECSTATIC.

I called Derek to tell him of my victory. Of how I was the Nome Arm Wrestling Champion. His response- you know you’re not my first girlfriend to have won the Nome arm wrestling competition. I used to date a girl nicknamed Tattoo… Ha WHAT?

Ok, in reality that wasn’t the first thing he said. He first showered me with congratulations, and it wasn’t until later he mentioned Tattoo. But it’s more fun to tell the story with his first response being I’m not his first girlfriend to have won the Nome arm wrestling competition.

To this day I still have the plaque. Not because a first place in a weird, remote arm wrestling competition is necessarily an accomplishment. But because of all the memories around that moment. Tamara’s fierce grin. Aliy’s intensity and energy even after crossing the finish line of a 1000-mile race just a few hours prior. It’s a moment in time that spiderwebs into so many other Nome memories over the years- snowmachining to White Mountain. Eating crab boils. The Safety Bar. Spending time in Nome with SPK. My family in Nome, cheering me on, dancing in bars. My friends in Nome. It’s this weird place where we can ignore the real world just a bit longer while celebrating the exceptional partnership of human and canine in a far-reaching town in remote Alaska.

And sidenote- I’ve never entered another arm wrestling competition. And I doubt I ever will.

Gravel is Gold

BIG NEWS at Ryno Kennel.

Our road and driveway are now COMPLETELY GRAVELLEDl! WAHOOOOO!!! Why is this so exciting you may ask? Well, for the last several years, our road became impassable by vehicles from early April through the end of May during spring break up, requiring us to park closer to the highway and transport groceries, humans, dogs, building supplies, everything, by ATV to the kennel. In 2016, with the help of a dozer from our buddy Dave with Alaska Commercial Rentals, we dozed in Lead Dog Lane and our driveway. Since then, we’ve been making yearly improvements. First a little gravel in bad spots. Then more gravel. Then a culvert. Then gravel down the entirety of Lead Dog Lane, and finally this summer, the last piece of the puzzle: gravel down our driveway. Most likely we’ll still have some soft spots next spring, but it should still be passable by vehicle! This is a game changer.

Even ATVs weren’t always safe.

Transporting sleds back home after an Arctic Trip

For anymore who has visited us in those April/May months, you know how big of a deal this is. Almost everyone has been stuck at one point or another in our driveway. Even during our wedding (which was in late September 2018 after several weeks of rain) a few guests were stopped by the massive puddle on Lead Dog Lane.

Looks dry, but….. SIKE!

The truck slid down off the road.

One time, both Derek and I went to town in separate trucks for errands. The road was almost dry, so we figured we could risk it. On my drive home as I approached a waterboard-like section of silty muck, I felt my truck sink down deep. The tires started spinning, but I wasn’t moving. Oops. After a few choice words in frustration, I jumped out of the truck and starting walking home. Derek will rescue me- I thought. As I approached the house, I looked for Derek’s red truck, but it wasn’t in the parking area. Hm. He must not be home yet. Then the front door of the house opened, and Derek stood there with a sheepish grin, and said, “Where’s your truck? I need it to pull out my truck.” Hand to forehead emoji. Long story short, my truck was stuck on one road while Derek’s was stuck on a different road to the house. With the help of a come-along and a good attitude (ok maybe I didn’t have a good attitude, but I tried) we managed to get Derek’s truck out then used his truck to pull out mine.

Hi-lift jack to the rescue.

As much as I hated getting stuck or having friends get stuck, I learned a lot of great skills. The Hi-Lift jack and I have spent many quality hours together. I no longer look at a pile of old lumber as useless, but instead assess its strength for placing under tires and raising up axles above the mud. I’ve come to appreciate even just one rotation of a tire as forward progress, and patience is key when it comes to getting a massive truck out of mud hole. Don’t just leave 5 minutes early. Leave at least 2 hours early if the driveway is soft. Make sure to help pull out a neighbor. You’ll be the one stuck next time.

I’ll never understand why people choose to go mudding for fun and search for places to get their jeeps and trucks stuck; however, I can appreciate the skills you learn when doing such activities. I’m sure I’ll have to put those skills to use again in the future, but hopefully for the time being, it’ll be smooth sailing back to Ryno Kennel!

A big thank you to Ed Anders for graveling the majority of the road and driveway. Not to mention his company, Chena Valley Development, is a Ryno Kennel sponsor! Thank you!

Next Winter Plans

Last weekend was the Iditarod Volunteer Picnic and Sign Ups! You might have noticed that Ryno Kennel isn’t on the roster for the 2023 Iditarod. We were excited to see 21 mushers planning to travel the trail to Nome, but we will not be one of them this year.

For the last eight years, we have conditioned and trained for a 1000-mile race every winter. Some of my most cherished mushing memories have been during my races or training trips. However, prepping for a 1000-mile race is all-consuming, and this winter, we’re excited to try something a little different. My foundational drive for having a sled dog team has always been bonding with the dogs and traveling in the magical, remote places of the North. The races provide the opportunity to do just that; however, they also have a pretty rigid framework. All that is to say- we still plan to do an adventure this winter, it just won’t be the Iditarod Trail.

We haven’t nailed down our exact plans just yet, and the final decision will probably depend on conditions and weather, but we’ve had a blast brainstorming ideas! One of my favorite so far is traveling from Circle to Dawson, spending time at all the remote cabins along the way. There is so much history in that part of Alaska, that I’d say this trip is near the top of the list. Or maybe venturing from Derek’s old trapline cabin in Big River and traveling home. Or maybe explore the Upper Salcha. There are SO MANY amazing places in Alaska it might be hard to pick! I’ll be filming the trip so that we can share the experience with everyone. We’ll also carry along a tracker for RK followers to keep track of our progress.

But for you racing fanatics, don’t worry, we’ll still make an appearance in the race circuit! We have 10 two-year-olds who have yet to race, so we hope to get them on their first 200 or 300 mile race. We haven’t decided which race to participate in just yet- any ideas?

Tucker will also be returning for his second season at Ryno Kennel and with a little prodding, we’ll hopefully get to read some of his colorful blog posts again. Mandy and Simon are moving to Switzerland. While we’re sad to see them go, I have a feeling they’ll be back to Alaska some day! Kalyn recently purchased a house just a mile or so from the kennel, so they will continue helping with Chena Outdoor Collective and developing our reindeer tours. The house has a bit of…..let’s call it character. Kalyn is documenting the remodel on their Tiktok account- @crotchetyoptimist The videos are hilarious. Check them out!

Derek's Adventure

For as long as I've known Derek, we've been on separate seasons. My winters are packed full of sled dogs and races and tours, and if I have a free day once a month, it's a good month. For Derek, his summers were his "go" time. For over 24 years, Derek has been a wildland firefighter with the last 22 years spent flying all over Alaska and seeing places that many people will never see. Sometimes I'll point at a spot on a map and look at its remoteness and say- we should explore there! To which he'll reply, "nah, that's just a bunch of black spruce and mosquitos but just right here, now that's country that I can't wait to get back and explore." While smokejumping allowed Derek to travel all over the state, it also completely consumed his life from about mid-February to early October. He'd get time off for his annual sheep hunt in early August, but otherwise he was tied to his job. Until this summer.

In April, Derek retired from smokejumping. In classic Derek form, he asked for no party or big celebration. Instead, he wanted to go explore the north slope of the Brooks Range. So that's what he did. For the last 10 days, Derek flew around the North Slope of the Brooks Range, getting the lay of the land and finding remote airstrips. He of course had his "little buddies" Jezzy and Sasha. They saw lots of wildlife- muskox, caribou, ptarmigan, porcupine, and grizzlies. They even had one encounter with a sow and older cubs that was a little too close for comfort. Luckily Jezzy and Sasha rely on their noses and not their eyesight, so they never spotted the trio, and Derek was able to back away without causing a scene. With a couple mornings of snow and a constant 10-15 mph wind, it wasn't exactly a beach vacation, but that's never been Derek's style anyway. I can't wait to join him on the next adventure!

Summer with Dogs & Deer

The summer so far has been glorious! LOTS of sunshine. Warm temperatures. The animals sleep most of the day then get rowdy in the evenings when temperatures cool down. I try to take one to two groups of dogs on a walk each morning. While everyone gets along for the most part, there are a lot of different personalities, and so I do put some thought into which dogs will play best together. Dogs like Yoshi, Faff, Tobin, and Bowser are social butterflies and can romp with anyone. Otis, Maple, and Beesly get along with most anyone, but they like to sprint back to the kennel at the top of the driveway. While they normally don’t get into mischief upon their return to the kennel, I prefer everyone to stick close and arrive as a group. Oryx can be hot-tempered with other females, but her recall is the best in the kennel, so as long as other sassy females aren’t in her face, she does well. Etta is probably one of the most challenging. She behaves like an angel on the walks, but if she gets back before me, there’s a 90% chance that she’ll just run back to her house and a 10% chance that she’ll skip her way over to Oryx’s house (seriously…if dogs can gleefully skip with a sinister air, that’s what she’s doing) and try to pick a fight. Most of the dogs run immediately back to their spots and patiently wait for me to clip them into their tethers. Faff, however, thinks this is the time for zoomies and likes to sprint around the platforms, play bowing with anyone who will engage in her antics. After a few laps she normally comes to her house to signal she’s ready to be clipped in. So many personalities!

I tried my best to upload a video, but I couldn’t get it to be embedded in the post. Here’s the Youtube link should you be interested!

https://youtube.com/shorts/yCDe4qvFcCY

We also took Sailor and Pilot on their first ever camp out! The reindeer were AMAZING. We did stop a lot for snacks along the way, but when the world is literally covered in delicious treats, how can you blame them?

Spring

Phew! After a whirlwind of a month, the 2021-2022 winter season has drawn to a close. Excitement didn’t end with the Iditarod. The fun continued with two weeks of women’s retreats, a trip up to the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Simon & Mandy’s wedding, and… baby Ike, Peep’s calf!

Ike was born just two days ago, and within 12 hours he was romping around the pen chasing his new herd mates. Incredible! We’re now impatiently waiting for Sappho to have her calf.

Immediately following Iditarod were the women’s retreats. The Women’s Retreats are some of my favorite trips. This is partially due to the beautiful scenery and spending two relaxing weeks with the dogs (and many favorite human friends who are also guides), but one of the biggest reasons that I love these trips is the women who participate. Many of the women are solo travelers, leaving their families to go to Alaska and try a completely new activity. Talk about a leap of faith! These trips are filled with women who aren’t afraid to step out of their comfort zone, or rather, maybe they are afraid but they do it anyway. There are so many incredible women- pilots, birders, ballroom dancers, ultra-marathoners, women who have summited Denali, dolphin trainers, mothers leaving their kids for the first time- but what is most inspirational is not necessarily their accomplishments, but the willingness to try something new. To take the step away from their routines, join a group of women they’ve never met, and embark on 7-days in the Alaska Range. Or as Beth would say “I didn’t know I could do that!” then immediately signing up for the new adventure. You get a bunch of ladies together who eagerly sign up to try something new, and you know it’s going to be a good time.

One fun story from the trips occurred during the first week. Moose have been very confrontational this winter due to the deep snow and challenging conditions. As a safety precaution, we had two guides (May Rose and Mollie) on snowmachines to travel in front and be a moose buffer. While the moose have been known to charge snowmachines, they especially hate dog teams, associating the dogs with wolves. Rather than running off the trail into the deep snow (where a wolf would have an advantage) the moose will hold their ground on the trail and run through a team if they feel too threatened. Sure enough, we encountered a particularly ornery moose the second day. Armed with an airhorn and firearms, May and Paige on snowmachines (Mollie was running Paige’s dog team) formed a buffer, gently encouraging a cow moose to not come our direction but instead take a trail off the main highway. Two snowmachiners came from the opposite direction, pinning the poor moose between our group and the arriving snowmachines. The moose turned and ran back towards us, but a warning blast from the airhorn and a warning shot in the air convinced the moose to keep her distance. The two snowmachiners who were traveling in the opposite direction motored off the highway and looped around the moose so that the moose was no longer sandwiched. She was still stressed and confused, so we waited for her to consider all her options and hopefully make the right decision. In the meantime, another family on snowmachines came up behind us. They passed our dog teams and pulled up next to May and Paige. Picture this, seven teams of five dogs. Two snowmachines staggered defensively at the front. May Rose, wearing a pink tutu and pink parka, a shotgun propped on her thigh as she eyed a grumpy moose. A grumpy moose, staring us down, trying to decide what it should do. The snowmachiner inquired about the situation and considered his options. His group didn’t have snowmachines that could easily go off trail (the snow was very deep), but they also admitted that they had no protection against moose either. Upon hearing this information, May, in her pink tutu and pink parka, shotgun propped on her thigh looks at the guy and goes- “you don’t have a gun?” I’d wager he’ll have that image stuck in his brain for years to come!

And not to worry, after a two hour standoff, the ornery moose found a good place to get off the Highway, and we had no more moose encounters the rest of our trips!

Shortly after the women’s retreats, we headed north to the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. I know I just said the women’s retreats are some of my favorite trips, and well, so is our annual trip North! We saw caribou and ptarmigan galore, a wolf, eagles, two musk ox sparring, and even bear tracks! Kalyn harvested their first caribou. Smoky led us through extreme conditions and was a total rockstar. For the most part, we were spoiled in every way possible. It wasn’t until the very last night that the wind picked up, and we were awoken at 5:30 AM by our tent with four people and heavy woodstove being blown across the tundra. I guess that means it’s time to go! Good people, great dogs, breathtaking views- it was the PERFECT way to end the season.

Wakey wakey

Iditarod 2022- post by Ryne

Well… that sure didn’t go how I planned. I’d say there are a fair number of 2022 Iditarod mushers who would say the same thing. Mother Nature combined with luck (or lack thereof) threw some curve balls this race, and for the RK team, we called it at 300 miles in McGrath. The standard press releases always say- for the welfare of the team- and honestly that’s the exact reason. I entered the race confident and excited, accompanied by more or less the same team (if not better) as our 2021 Iditarod team when we finished in 18th with 12 dogs. The dogs were well-conditioned and healthy. I had a brand new sled built under the expert supervision of Allen Moore. We had new gear (leggings and fox tails) sewn by Kalyn. The team was fired up. We were ready to rock!

But unfortunately it was just one of those years. It started with Oryx tripping going down the infamous Happy River Steps and straining her tricep. Then Dracula developed a swollen wrist. The run between Rohn and Nikolai was filled with first 30 miles of no snow then 40 miles of extreme moguls, jerking the dogs backwards as my sled bobbed up and down the moguls like a boat in waves. By Nikolai, I knew that my only hope was putting in some serious time massaging and resting to see if the small issues would go away, so we opted to take an un-planned 24-hour rest in Nikolai. Yoshi’s sore feet and hamstrings weren’t 100% by the end of our 24-hour rest, so Yoshi stayed in Nikolai. After a very slow run through a blizzard to McGrath, Faff and Sherlock were added to the list of returned dogs. I’d like to mention that 4 of the 5 returned dogs had never been dropped before in a race, and all except Sherlock had finished at least one (and up to three) one-thousand mile races. It just didn’t make sense.

At 300-miles, we were already down to a team of nine dogs, and it wasn’t nine dogs without their own issues. In reality, only about seven of the team were 100%. I stayed 24 hours, thinking that maybe we could still move forward, but after another long break, it was apparent that a 1000-mile run just wasn’t in the cards for us this year. Why? I have no idea. I’m inclined to think heat and hard trail are the culprits. I never once put my parka on during the 300-miles, which is astonishing. The trail was also hard-packed, and we’ve only run in soft conditions all winter. Yet other teams ran through these same conditions and continued on, so I’m at a little bit of a loss as to the cause. We can’t blame lack of rest because over the 300 miles (not counting our time in Mcgrath), we took 45 hours of rest. For comparison, a normal Copper Basin 300 is 18 hours.

I honestly just don’t know. But what I do know, is that the decision to scratch was the right decision. All the dogs are happy and healthy. The injuries that cropped up on the race were not major, and each dog just needed a few days to re-coup. We’re all back and running and gearing up for the multi-day trips starting on Thursday. Honestly probably the only lingering effect is the damage to my pride, but well, I’m getting over that pretty quickly too. And actually, probably the hardest part is knowing that so many people have helped us get to the starting line- sponsors, family, friends. We’ve had a badass crew this year of Simon, Tucker, Mandy, Kalyn, Derek, and I all helping in some way to get this team to the starting line. Tyler and Kelsey were providing in-home, super care for the dropped dogs. So many people have supported us financially and by following along. So that decision to scratch didn’t just impact a team of 9 dogs and one musher. It was a team of 9 dogs and so many amazing people (all of you) who were scratching. But I guess that’s what makes the Ryno Kennel team special, is that I knew it’s a team of people who care about the dogs and know that even though it would be disappointing to call it quits at 300 miles, the decision wouldn’t be questioned. We’re in it for the dogs. So thank you to everyone for supporting us and our decision. I feel very lucky to be surrounded (both in person and virtually) by so many incredible people and dogs.

Some photos by Whitney McLaren. Yes that’s Wingman and Dolly playing. They were both 100% and wondering why we were resting so much.

Iditarod Update 8/11/22

Hard races are inevitable. While we don’t know all of the details of Ryne’s race, we do know that she’s an extremely respected musher within the world of sled dogs. That’s because her dogs’ physical and mental health take priority over competition, and yet, she’s still a contender. Ryne’s decision to scratch from the race at the McGrath checkpoint represents that truth. 

Before I came to the Ryno Kennel, I’d been talked at by men with experience running and racing dogs. Talk based around a big question: “How do you get a dog to pull a sled when it doesn’t feel like it?” The answers to this question are why there is so much controversy surrounding the sport of mushing. 

As I’ve mentioned before on the blog, my first job at the Ryno Kennel was to take dogs on a walk — untethered, joyful dogs, running off-trail through the woods. This was Ryne’s indirect answer to that controversial question. If a dog doesn’t feel like pulling a sled, then it’s just a dog, and we should do our best to make sure it’s a happy one. 

From what Ryne’s told us about the race, the dogs were more than ready to keep moving down the trail at every checkpoint, regardless of any aches or pains they felt. If you’ve ever been around sled dogs that want to get going, you know how hard it is to keep them waiting. When Ryne decided to scratch, she was looking at a team of happy dogs, but what was best for their physical health was for them to come home. With responsible racing, that’s just the way it goes.

Happy dogs: Sherlock, Dracula, Oryx, and Faff all enjoying their well earned rest at Tyler and Kelsey’s house. Belle has rights to the couch as an old Ryno Kennel retiree.

Good girl, Faffers.

Iditarod Update: Day 4

Ryne decided to take her 24hr rest in Nikolai, which is where we signed off in yesterday’s blog update. We’ve heard that the trail out of Rohn was some of the worst mushers have seen — jarring ruts and moguls in the trail from all of the freeze-thaw cycles this season. 

With less trail news, we’ll take the opportunity to extend a big Thank You to everyone who is tuning in and cheering for Ryne and the dogs. 

We’d like to give a special shout-out to the people and businesses that have helped make running the race possible.

Feniks and Company LLC

Bema Electronics

Two Rivers Outpost 

AlaSkins @alaskins907 

Chena Valley Development

Orion’s Belt School of Self Defense

Tailspin Media

Big Dans Trucking

Chena Outdoor Collective @chenaoutdoorco

Rick and Sue Patton

All of the individual dog sponsors!


We definitely need to thank Tyler and Kelsey in Anchorage for taking care of any of the Ryno crew dogs who have to leave the race early. Right now Oryx is enjoying a well deserved vacation with them. We’ll let you know about Dracula’s arrival as soon as we get word.

Oryx enjoying her time with Tyler.

All of the encouragement we’re receiving as a kennel is being used well, from the motivation Ryne feels on the trail to the work back home, even to these social media updates. So thank you everyone for reaching out!

Back home at the kennel in Two Rivers we’ve all taken a day off from tours. Yet another layer of gentle snow is settling in, odd-jobs are getting tinkered with, dogs are having their walks, naps are being had.

When Dwight comes back from a walk he will wait at the cabin door and refuse to be lured near the dog yard. For a big doofus, he’s frustratingly smart. He gets a lot of cabin naps.